In central Sumatra after rice harvests, the empty paddies provide excellent areas to celebrate and play. Though famous for other festivals, the highland area around Bukittinggi is also home to kite competitions.
After most of a day exploring winding roads the width of western sidewalks, fertile mountain villages too nice for postcards, and striking crater-rim vistas, the sun was starting to set. And in the equatorial latitudes, sunsets don’t take long.
So I was heading home on my motorbike – 150 cubic centimeters of pure power – in warm light and refreshing mountain air. I suddenly saw an explosion of white winged creatures.
In the distance it looked like a flock of birds rocketing straight up into the sky. The only clues about their true nature were faint lines shimmering after them, converging in a distant rice paddy.
Finally tracking down the source I learned that everyone attending this kompetisi layang-layang was 50% participant, 50% spectator, and 100% hilarious. The organiser/announcer conversed with me casually while holding an activated megaphone to his mouth – regardless of how close we were standing or how uninterested others might be in his half of the conversation. The participants were all ages, and would take turns launching each other’s kites, and flying (or repairing) their own.
An hour later with the sun kissing the horizon, I was bid farewell by a familiar voice. Amplified by a megaphone.
[ Click photos to view full-screen. For the full story, don’t miss Minangkabau Motorbiking: A Tale of 3 Trips (Indonesia #10) ]
An explosion of white winged creatures high into the sky. The only clues about their true nature were faint lines shimmering after them, converging in a distant rice paddy.
Notice that the one at far left facing the wrong direction isn't a kite.
"On Your Marks.."
Everyone positions their kites onto the starting line and ensures the ultra-fine kite strings aren't tangled.
"Get Set..."
The launchers wait for the signal from the announcer.
"Go!"
Some of the kites crash wildly into each other or the ground, while the remainder shoot up like rockets.
After the launch, the fliers retreat through the field guiding their agile kites skyward at incredible speeds.
The winner is whomever first flies their kite up and directly overhead. These are not fighting kites, but still, many of these delicate kites are destroyed during the dozens of rounds.
The Indonesian word for 'kite' is a rare double but non-pluralised word: 'layang-layang'.
Another one in this category, but even more fun to say, is 'lumba-lumba' (which means 'dolphin')
The organiser, announcer and referee in-one. He kept welcoming me, asking questions, and replying to mine – all through the megaphone.
Minaret silhouette. Indonesia is the world's largest Islamic country, with 206 million Muslims.
